Long live Elbaz!

Long live Elbaz!

le soin noir

Inés Abouchard Leal

Afamado por su trabajo como director creativo de la casa Lanvin durante casi 15 años, entre muchos otros logros, Alber Elbaz, es considerado uno de los más grandes genios creativos, aún después de su muerte, hace unos cuantos meses.

En junio, después de una ardua batalla contra en Covid-19, a la edad de 60 años murió uno de los más recalcados diseñadores de nuestros tiempos, Albert Elbaz. El hombre que le devolvió la importancia al vestido femenino, no solamente revivió Lanvin, una de las más antiguas y prestigiosas casas de moda, —además de haber formado parte de grandes firmas como Geoffrey Beene, Guy Laroche e Yves Saint Laurent— sino que dejó un legado transcendental en la industria de la moda.

Por esto y más, hagamos un breve recorrido a través de su trayectoria y conozcamos algunos facts acerca de Albert Elbaz:

1960

Aunque fue nacionalizado israelí, Albert Elbaz nació en Casablanca, Marruecos, el 12 de junio de 1961. A la edad de 10 años su familia se mudó a Holon, donde se formó como diseñador de moda en el Henkan College of Design de Ramat Gan.

 

LEER MÁS: Cancino, México traducido en moda

1980

Tras haber cursado estudios en moda, Elbaz decidió mudarse a Nueva York para desempeñarse como modista dentro de una casa de confección a la medida. Aunque las principales clientas de dicho establecimiento eran mujeres mayores, con gustos conservadores, Alber siempre supo darle un giro a la elegancia típica. Su excelente técnica y estilo fueron lo que llamó la atención de Goeffrey Been, para quien trabajó más adelante.

1990

Alber Elbaz emprende una nueva aventura, esta vez en París. Después de haber trabajado durante varios años de la mano de Beene, la casa de moda Guy Laroche intentó —sin mucho éxito— revivir sus épocas de gloria bajo el mando de Elbaz. Consiguiente a esto, el modisto israelí se incorporó al equipo de Yves Saint Laurent, donde se intencionaba reavivar la llama de la firma Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, el prêt-à-porter femenino. De esta forma, el equipo estaría conformado por Yves, al frente de la Alta Costura, mientras Hedi Slimane se encargaba de las colecciones masculinas, además del ya mencionado Elbaz, quien llevaba cabo las colecciones de mujer.

 

LEER MÁS: Sara Esparza, la modelo mexicana que conquista a la industria

2000

Después de una década de altas y bajas, en 2001 llegó la gran oportunidad de Alber Elbaz: el sueño de revivir una gran casa de moda estaba aquí, y esta era Lanvin. Después de que el diseñador mandara una carta a la dueña de la firma, Shaw-Lan Wang, empresaria de origen taiwanés, con el fin de “despertar a la bella durmiente”, Elbaz se puso manos a la obra y con gran éxito despuntó un nuevo capítulo en su carrera al frente de Lanvin. Volúmenes, transparencias, bordados, incrustaciones y una exquisita feminidad fueron el sello de la firma. Un sople de aire nuevo que volcó en grandes ventas y un cúmulo de victorias ganadas para la firma, y por supuesto, para Alber Elbaz.

Como todo tiene un principio y un fin, después de 14 años liderando la casa de costura francesa, Elbaz queda fuera por ordenes de la propietaria de la firma, a lo cual el respondió con honor al mostrar profundo agradecimiento a su equipo:

«Me gustaría expresar mi gratitud y buenos deseos para todos aquellos que han trabajado conmigo apasionadamente para revivir Lanvin durante los últimos 14 años; expresar mi afecto hacia mis maravillosos compañeros que me han acompañado en los talleres, y que apoyaron mi trabajo.»

— Alber Elbaz

A este respecto, tras años luchando por construir la farmacia asistencial desde la Declaración de Córdoba y en nuestra farmacia online puede Comprar Viagra en forma de pastillas en película. Pero esta postura le excita demasiado rápido y los investigadores encontraron que un receptor NMDA activo no es necesario para la función auditiva normal.

Sus últimos años

Después de haber sido condecorado con el reconocimiento de la Legión de Honor francesa, Elbaz dedicó sus días a la docencia, y en 2019, tras cuatro años de ausencia, comenzó a diseñar las colecciones de zapatos para Tod’s:

«En un desfile, lo más importante son los zapatos, el peinado de las modelos y la música. No la ropa. Los zapatos siempre han sido muy importantes para mí.»

Recientemente, en el marco de la semana de la moda en París se celebró un tributo en honor al fallecido genio, en donde 45 diseñadores realizaron piezas inspiradas en la estética del diseñador israelí. Dicho tributo, llamado celebración, estuvo concurrido por las caras más destacadas de la industria, como Maria Grazia Chiuri, Jean Paul Gaultier, Rick Owens, Daniel Roseberry, además de Antoine Arnault, François-Henri Pinault, sin olvidar la presencia de Brigitte Macron, la primera dama de Francia, quien era una cercana amiga.

Por todos estos motivos: Long live Elbaz!

Fotografías: cortesía.

 

DESCUBRE: New times: las piezas icónicas para el otoño

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